World Cup - Part 4 - The Mighty Kaiserchiefs prevail

The World Cup final itself was an amazing day. We started in our hotel near Saint Dumont Airport a good 15 minutes by taxi from Copacobana. We wanted to get a metro but it was completely closed. For a two mile radius beside the Maracana stadium there was  a total security lock down with a very heavy army and police presence. We tried to get a taxi but all were full. This was 12 o'clock in the day and the match starting at 4pm. We wanted to get to the FIFA fan fest at 1.30 at the latest to try get in. We eventually resorted to local buses and got lucky getting on to one. The 20 minute journey to get down town was hilarious. It seemed like I was in Buenos Aires, for all intensive purposes, I was. The place was a wash with the reported 120,000 Argentines who had mad the 30 hour drive from Argentina. Rio belonged to them to the disgust of the locals. They were singing loudly, slamming on horns and blowing on trumpets, whistles anything that would make a noise. It was great to see.

We got a bite to eat in a Boteca and made our way to the large queue for the fan fest, thankfully Camila and I and her sister and husband got in. The place holds 20,000 and I reckon 18,000 were Argentinean, there were a small number of Brazilians and a sprinkle of Europeans. We got a German flag and were supporting the Europeans. It was hilarious the amount of Argentines who came up to me and wanted a photo and the amount that also were waving their hands at meet trying to provoke a reaction. They were full sure it was there day and were going to win.

The only way to describe there support was like a huge heard mentality frenzy, the likes you would see in the stands of a derby game between Boca and River Plate or Celtic Rangers. They really were going for it.  A lot of folk were at fever pitch for the entire game. The funniest part for me was when they had their disallowed goal. A lot of them thought the goal counted, they exploded when the ball hit the net. I've seen a lot of celebrations in my day but this one was ridiculous. Two old men in there 60s or 70s fell to the ground in front of my feet, rolling in the hallowed Copacabana sand, screaming and roaring in ecstasy. They were a mess when they got up, especially when they found out the goal was disallowed, I'll never forget the shouting on the ground, holding each other and shouting punching their hands in the air. It's hard to describe the emotion of the crowd and of these two fans in particular.  The enormity of the situation of potentially winning the world cup on Brazilian soil was almost too much for them to hold in. I reckon they were right on the wire of spontaneous human combustion. Myself and Rodrigo couldn't stop laughing for a good minute. For me the best part of the entire day.

In the end, the Germans grounded out a well deserved win and the Argentines went from complete carnival madness to a progression of heads bowed down in silence walking out of the Fan Fest. I did my piece for the Germans and kept their flag flying as a proud European. The small Brazilian group that was present loved the fact that the German flag was aloft flying high as thousands of Argentines were forced to see it on the way out. It was interesting to note that only two of them came up and said well done.  The rest were totally despondent and were simply without words.

The Brazilians partied hard into the night with their new found German friends. The sighs of relief from the Brazilans were palpable. The shame of them losing the cup to the Argentians would have be too much to bare.

The samba started again and the tango beats declined and all seemed well in the world again for the Brazilians as a beautiful night light came down on the Fan Fest. It was a really pleasure to have been in Rio to see history unfold and I have to take my hats off to the Argentians for a masterclass in how to support your team. Seeing so many of them making the journey mostly by car and then singing for hours on end was amazing and a sight i won't forget in a hurry. Also fair play to the Brazilians for putting on an unforgettable show and for the Germans inevitably doing the business. They fully deserved it. I'm already looking forward to Olympics down here already. If it's half the show that this one was it will be amazing.

World Cup - Part 3 - Ass Shaking on Copacabana

I didn't know what the FIFA Fan Fest was until I came to the World Cup, but now I know all about it. Its a festival come party, that FIFA put on for free, sponsored by big companies like Coca Cola, Johnson and Johnson, Hyundai, etc - to allow the general public watch the games in a huge party atmosphere with local entertainers taking the stage before and after the games.

The one in Salvador was great but the one in Rio takes the prize holding 20,000 people at any given time.

Here is one of the best acts "Anitta" a local funk queen that many are saying is going to be the next big act to come out of Latin America and develop a world audience.

Check out her dancing, her and her crew really know how to shake it all about. Really got the crowd going for the 3rd spot playoff before Brazil were crushed again, this time by the mighty Dutch.

Check out her most popular song!

World Cup - Part 2 - Top Moments

There has been so many great moments in the World Cup so far. So much excitment and emotion.  Blood has boiled. Guts have definitely spilt all over the place . Stars have been born. The tears that has gushed like the Iguazu Falls. The smiles felt like a sun set on Ipanema. The fervent debate. The pride in the anthems. The pre and post forsenic analysis. It's been immense.

Here are some of favourite moments in images, even looking at them now brings the memories rushing back.

van the man

"Forca Neymer"

"I did nothing"

Luis does the business against England

King James has arrived 

Best goal keeping performance i've ever seen

What were the Iranian's feeling after this?

Would it have been better for Brazil if Chile had won?

Never seen anything like it. Management balls!

Some free kick!

Humble but triumphant goodbyes

The best goal scorer in world cup history. Watch out for your mate Muller!

Let me know what images you would have added to the list? Here are some of BBC's favourites. 

World Cup Part 1 - Christmas Every Day

So I'm down in Brazil again but this time it's different - it's the World Cup. It's as if it has been Christmas day, every day. It's by far the best sporting tournament I've ever seen, studied and luckily been able to watch in person. Watching the Brazilians uncoil around this event and unleash their emotional tsumani on the world has been fascinating. Politics and sport are wed at the hip in Brazil with such a huge population which such stark disparities in the quality of life in society. I have been a little surprised by the amount of people that openly wanted Brazil to lose at the group stages from the tournament of in some shape or form receive a humiliation, which we now know they have with the unforgettable 7 -1 trawling by the imperious Germans.

As Camila's brother Fausto put it " PT or "Partido dos Trabalhadores" and Dilam [their president] are corrupt and not good for this country. They promise change but where is it. It is much better we get himiliated and people wake up and start to protest. We need change." It a strong conviction that most Brazilians support in the middle class, it's how this uprising or change in attitude happens, and when which is the question. Most people are behind the Cup now but in two months time when the next vote for the presidency of the country starts the majority of people are saying they'll voice their opinion in the ballot box to reject corruption and try start the change the country so badly needs.

As an outsider I enjoy talking about the country's situation, debating how it can change and comparing it to Ireland, Europe and other places I've been. It's like in Ireland talking about the weather or house prices, it's a national passion over here. People are curious about how it is like in other countries and what can be done here to improve things. And while there has been plenty of such discussions on this trip already, this time it's all about the football and what a tournament it has been so far.

Here is how Camila and i have decided to play it:

• 4 days in Brazil, taking in the amazing Brazil v Chile shootout with her family and friends. I'll never forget the penalty shoot out against Chile, everyone was emotionally destroyed after it
• 7 days in Salvador where we were lucky enough to take in live the USA v Belgium whopper of a game which saw one of the best, if not the best, defensive performances I have ever witnesses by a team in the World Cup. We also got to take in 3 games in the impressive FIFA fan fest events area near the famous Salvador lighthouse in the Barra area of the city. Most of these occasions where then followed by some caipirinhas and food in the crazy Rua Vermeholan area (think of a small Temple Bar, with loads of "gringos")
• Next 4 days in Sao Paulo again, this time we took in the two semi finals. We watched Brazil getting hammered in Fausto's house and decides to keep away from the FIFA fun fest which is a good bit outside of Sao Paulo and also Rua Madelana, the main vocal point for fans, as reports where coming in that you could barely walk there it was so full. Im sure like the rest of you, you were shocked with the result. No one saw it coming. What an occasion. A massive lesson for Brazil and from a football point of view in my opinion a clear changing of the guard, with Germany now becoming the new super power in football
• I'm now in Rio for the 3rd place play off and final. The big one.  We've been really enjoying the FIFA fan fest, this one in Rio is on Copacobana so we're going to go for that. 

More to come, time to go over to teamtalk.com to get ready for the build up to the games.

Budapest and Bratislava

Just back from Boston and New York and this time the ramble was to Hungary and Slovakia. for New Years. After checking out where we could get a bit of sun over the Christmas break and failing to get anything half interesting with a decent price we opted for bang for your buck return flight to Budapest for 330 each including 1 extra 20kg bag. 

After a delay of 45 minutes due to the aeroplane having to update its “software” we were off.  A short 3 hours and we were there.  On this occasion I hadn’t much time to check out what the Budapest held with the exception of a cursory glance at Lonely Planet and Wikipedia.  I had my trusty Irish Independent little green travel book on the city so I knew nearly every thing I needed would be in it. We went for a 5 star hotel the Boscolo, which is an iconic hotel rebuilt after the war boasting one of the most famous café houses in the world “café New York” which lived up to its decadent ornate reputation when we arrived.

We arrived 9ish at night on the first night and with the Christmas atmosphere still in the air and with the city preparing for New Years we strolled down town past the famous Budapest opera house and then to the Christmas stalls outside the impressive St Stephen’s basilica . Quickly, we bought a really delicious pint glass of sweet mulled wine. It was the best I’ve ever tasted.  Hit the spot just as the doctor ordered. Then Camila and I strolled slowly down the streets to the water front to see the resplendent Four Seasons hotel all done up like a giant light show gushing out its energy onto the silently flowing Danube and iconic chain bridge which seemed to compete with the hotel for attention. As we walked across it we watched the beautiful castle in Buda on the right hand side and also caught our first site of the impressive Hungarian parliament. 

The city is impressive and it quite rightly deserves the reputation of being called the “little Paris of the East of Europe”.  It’s like you’re actually in Paris. The architecture is brotherly and the café culture is rife.

As we got introduced to the city I felt myself drawn to complex history the city had experienced of late. Aiding Hitler on his crusade, being pulverized by the Russian forces and subsequently having to endure decades of Communism before breaking free and winning its own democracy. The city has been true a lot and that’s not mentioning the evasion of the Romans and Turks, the remnants of which are still very evident in the bath and pool culture the city is so well known for.

The next few days were a mix of checking out the good, the bad and the ugly of the restaurant scene. Checking out the opera and relaxing in baths and hotel pools. Exactly what I was looking for from the trip.

Highlights, Lowlights and Learnings

• They are big style into their Paprika over here, I didn’t know that before I came here. They even have their own TV channel called TV paprika. 
• The Italian influence is easy to see.  Plenty of pasta and pizza on offer as well as the omnipresent local Goulash delicacies.
• Being very fortunate to get a fantastic rendition of the famous “Nutcracker” opera in the Budapest Opera house. I’d known the name but had no idea what it was about. I also knew one or two of the melodies but had no idea what scenes they were in the opera and why they are so beautiful and world renowned. If you get a chance I’d say check out the show, especially around Christmas. Beautiful.
• We then frequented one of the famous bath houses, the highlight in that one of the outside pools at 40 degrees inside the water and 5 degrees out with a chill breeze was great. Overall, very disappointing though. I had to wait 25 minutes in a very disorganized queue to get a ticket with zero customer services taking place and workers behind the tills which left you with a better chance getting a smile off a statute rather then any of them. Also, inside it was chaotic, and the disorganization was every where again. Poor signed posts, a packed locker room you couldn’t swing a cat in and very slippery floors everywhere. The pools were packed with people and you could tell a lot of people in there felt very uncomfortable. I wouldn’t go back
• Rip off taxi drivers. I really detest this about traveling. Not for the first time and it won't be the last we were done.  I had watched a YouTube video on Hungary and the guy presenting had advised to watch out for the taxis. He was right. The classic can you bring us to x location and then he brought us twice the distance we should have went when we actually realized where we were and where we had left from. Annoying. Best solution ring ahead to the hotel and get them to recommend a good taxi company. 
• St Stephen’s was well worth a visit, also interested to check out the mummified St Stephen’s hand.  The inside of the church is beautiful and wouldn’t be out of place in the middle of the Vatican.
• New Years night was really great. We walked again down the romantic streets of Budapest at night to close to the water to eat in a lovely restaurant called Italiano. For 87 euros a head we got a lovely seat beside the grill which we were able to watch one of their top chefs grill skillfully massive t-bone steaks all night. It was great to watch and very entertaining. Smoke everywhere. He fighting with the heat and flames while scorning and people who wanted to take a photo of the show.  We got then to starter, a lovely salad dish for Camila and I had a delicious anti-pasta washed down with Proseco. We then munched down a lovely light dish of pasta and tomato and then a huge chunk of t-bone steak. Some of it was actually burnt and our very attentive waiter without missing a beat went off to get us some more.  The services was top notch all night and it was great to see a good restaurant in full flow.  By the time we finished the meal it was 11.50pm, Camila then asked the waiter could we pay for the meal, but go out to watch the fireworks and then come back to finish our meal. They obliged smiling and before we knew it we were marching down the street to the Danube and chain bridge to see the spectical.  What a let down! If I had 3 of my own tiny little fizzlers and waved them in the air and threw them up in the sky the last moment it would have been better. It was brutal the worst ever. Definitely don’t come to Budapest for the first show. Camila and I discussed it after wards and we won’t even give it 1 out of 10, we agreed on .5 out of 10. I’d say there was 20 fireworks shot into the air at most. Most of which were at different times. There was no synchronisation, no planning, no nothing. Everyone left after 3 minutes flat. A disaster for the organisers, whatever happened  we may never know. Back to the restaurant, we had a nice plate of assorted deserts, then I tasted the traditional pork knuckles and lentils which the locals eat after mid night to usher in a new year and prosperity.
• We also checked out the famous Gereaud café down town. This was great. While a little expensive at 13 euros for a steak sandwich and 9 euros for a slice of cake. I could see what all the fuss was about. Think Paris macroon’s in Harrods on 5^th avenue New York. Chic.  Very cool atmosphere, only think was it was full of tourists like ourselves which took a little bit away from the experience when you see all the camera on show. 
• One other restaurant come café that warrants special merit was the impeccable Callas, 1061 Andrassy Ut, just in case you need the address. Wow! Amazing service and again as in so many places in the city, a beautiful café, with live piano playing and tasty beverages and cakes.  I’d be very happy to have somewhere like this in Dublin, I’d definitely make it my business to be a regular. 
• The inventor of the biro and the Rubic’s cube come from Budapest

I won’t be rushing back to Budapest any time soon but I’m very glad I came. It is without doubt a beautiful city and the food can be excellent. I’d say you’d need no more than 3 days to take it in. Get yourself a nice hotel down near the water front and make sure to try go to the baths at off peak time to get the most out of it. Make sure to check out some of the really nice cafes and the Opera is an absolute must.  Also on offer is the paprika and local Bulls blood wine if you can get your hands on it.  The main shopping thoroughfares are nothing to write home about. Very similar to all the others ones you’ll find in most places around the world.  So I wouldn’t recommend it for shopping. The city itself is very charming thought and prices off the main tourist locations are very good.  Go to laze around the city in the cafes, soak up some of the very interesting history, slurp on some Goulash and paprika soup and check out the music which is everywhere. 

Memories:

Horrible meal outside of Basillica, New Years night waiter feeling sad he had to work, cool little lemon slice juicer,  huge party boat on the Danuble, busker up at the castle, communist statues in the park,  McDonalds meal for 1.5 euro with model inside, rave party the 30^th of December in one of the pools, dodgy breakfast in hotel, getting a Panatoni present off hotel,  Camila buying Paprika, strange local currency  FORINT, Hooters, terrible Bruschetta but lovely pizza in a dodgy Italian restaurant, ice hockey in the pubs,  very poor tapa bar, with Hungarian owner brutalizing the Spanish language :0),  joint bed and room in hotel,  fat kid jumping in the pool and annoying everyone,  delicious coconut slide and mulled wine and beer, excellent glass of New Years wine,  dodgy light flashing bunny ear costumes, 

Bratislava was 3 hours away from Budapest. There was very little on offer when we got there. Some quaint cafes, pubs and restaurents but very little in general. The city seemed vacant almost absent with the exceptions of the tourists around.  1 day is enough to see it. We went to the recommended tourist havens. The castle, which wasn't much to talk about and then the main square which had some nice churches and some cool cafes but very little. For a capital of a country it was very underwhelming.  It felt like a small parochial city in Ireland, like a Dundalk or a Drogheda. 

Only really thing that was of note was the cool saucer type restaurent on the bridge in the middle of the city.